Mandalay Division Myanmar

Area : 37021.826 sq-km (14294.721 sq-miles)
Population : 6442000
Capital : Mandalay
Religion : Buddhism, Christianity, Islam

Myanmar Mandalay Division is the second most populous Division in Myanmar. The average population density is 424 persons per square mile. Mandalay Province falls in the Dry Zone of Central Mandalay bordering Bago Division on the south, Magway on the west, Sagaing Division on the north and Myanmar Shan State on the east. Various Kinds of climates can be found in Mandalay Division. The eastern plateau has a warm wet temperate climate. The average temperature in the coldest months is 60°F (15.6°C). The lowest temperature sometimes reaches the freezing point. The southernmost part has a Savannah climate and the remaining regions have arid-like climate in Myanmar.

Majority of the population is Burma Myanmar. There are also a small number of Shans, Danus, Lisus and Palaungs residing on the eastern plateau. Leway and Pyinmana have a few populations of Plain Chins (Asho Chins). National races such as Kachin, Kayin and Chin are also living in Myanmar Mandalay division. Majority of Myanmar people are Buddhists. There are also Hindus, Muslims and Christians. Myanmar Burmese language is mainly spoken in Myanmar.

The main crops cultivated in Mandalay Myanmar division are paddy, wheat, millet, corn, sesame, groundnut, sunflower, beans, cotton, sugarcane, tobacco, chilli and onion. Other crops are garlic, tea, coffee, vegetables, flowers, banana, mango, plum, grape, betel nut, toddy palm and betel leaf. Myanmar agriculture and farming is jointly conducted in areas with large acres of cultivated land. Cattle, sheep, goat, pig and chicken are raised in this Mandalay Myanmar province too.

Mandalay is the country's last loyal Myanmar capital, and still an infant at 150 years old, Myanmar's second city is so not Yangon. Quieter, more laid back and snuggled into its setting on the banks of the Myanmar Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) river, 695 km north of the capital, Mandalay spreads lazily along a wide, flat grid of streets filled less with cars and commuter packed Myanmar buses than squeaky bicycles and trishaws. And dust even the palm trees are caked with stuff. Myanmar Mandalay is not particularly pretty, but few visitors to skip a few days here, that's long enough to climb to steep Mandalay hill, lined with Myanmar Buddhas and Nats(spirit beings) for views of Myanmar Shan hills. It's long enough for a glimpse of the Myanmar famous Mahamuni Paya, an evening with the Moustache brothers and day trips to the remarkable Myanmar ancient cities hovering at the city's outskirt for some, the best pastime is sitting over tea at dusk and watching kids and adults fly plastic kites over the rush hour scene. Myanmar Mandalay is hot during the summer.

Many people begin a stay at the one place that breaks out of the pancake flat plain, 230 m high Myanmar Mandalay hill. Visitors can taxi halfway up along a switchback road, where an escalator leads to the top and an elevator goes back down. Alternatively, you can make the half hour barefoot climb that take in numerous Myanmar Buddha and nat shrines; there are many pleasant places to stop for a rest or a drink on the way to Myanmar Mandalay hill. At the top the reward is a full panoramic vie. The hazy blue outline of the Myanmar Shan hills to the east, Myanmar Mandalay place to the south and the Ayeyarwady to the west.

This Myanmar museum features a collection of Mandalay regalia, royally commissioned art and palm leaf manuscripts, coins, and bagan period Buddha images. It's not brilliant, but it can get you out of the sun (or rain); staff members don't always seem to check if you have the US$ 10 ticket or not.

To the southeast of Mandalay hill Myanmar, close to the bus stop and near the road up to the hill, is the Sandamani paya. Similar to Kuthodaw, which is the east, off the main road, the slightly run down sandamani features a cluster of slender white washed stupas built on the site of king Mindon's temporary place while the new Mandalay palace was under construction. The paya enshrines an iron image of the Myanmar Buddha cast in 1082 by Bodawpaya and transported here from Amarapura in 1874. Around the stupa lies a collection of 1774 marble slabs inscribed with commentaries on the Tripitaka (Buddhist cannon).

Frequently dubbed the world's biggest book for its surrounding 729 marble slabs, the kuthodaw paya sees a lot of worship and tourists. The entire 15 books of the Tripitaka are inscribed on the slabs, each of which is housed in its won small stupa. Building of the paya commenced in 1857, the same time work began on the Myanmar royal place. Kuthodaw was modeled on the Shwezigon Paya at Nyaung U, Bagan in Myanmar.

This Myanmar monastery stands a couple of hundred meters south of Kuthodaw Paya. Originally built by King Mindon in 1857, at the same time as the Kuthodaw this Kyaung (Myanmar monastery) features the traditional Myanmar Burmese monastic construction a masonry base topped by a wooden building but instead of the usual multi roofed design it has graduated rectangular terraces. Atumashi was once home to a famous Buddha image clothed in Myanmar King's silk clothing and with a huge diamond set on its forehead.

Just east of the Atumashi Kyaung stands the wooden Shwenandaw kyaung (Myanmar (Burma) monastery). This Myanmar (Burma) monastery is of great interest, not only as a fine example of a traditional Burmese wooden monastery, but lot as a fragile reminder of the old Mandalay palace Myanmar. It was once part of the palace complex, Myanmar king Mindon lived here, and in fact died in this Myanmar building. The building is covered inside and out with carved panels, but unfortunately many of the exterior panels have weathered badly and some have been removed. At one time this Myanmar building was gilded and decorated with glass mosaics. The carved panels inside are still in excellent condition in Myanmar.

Directly south of Mandalay Hill and built over a 25 year period that ended in 1878. The pagoda's nice enough, but its fame comes from its central occupant: an 8 m, 900 tonne Buddha, carved from a single block of marble. The marble block was so colossal, it's said, that 10000 men spent 13 days transporting it from a canal to the Myanmar current site. Ornamented with royal attire, the image was completed and dedicated in 1865. Around the shrine are figures of the Buddha's 80 arahats (enlightened disciples), arranged in groups of 20 on each of the four sides. In a building in the southeast of the compound are a giant alms bowl and colourful renderings of Myanmar King Mindon's visit here in 1865. Originally, this paya, like its namesake in Amarapura, would be modeled on the famous Anada Pahto of Bagan, but due to the place rebellion this grand plan was not carried through. Myanmar Mandalay's biggest festival is held at Kyauktawgyi paya for seven days in early to mid October to commemorate thadingyut in Myanmar.

Mandalay Myanmar Palace Myanmar is the overwhelming centerpiece of Mandalay, the palace compound sprawling south of Mandalay hill, is surrounded by a fort made up of immense 3.2 km long, 8 m high walls and guarded by a 70 m wide moat. Visitors can enter at the east gate only, where a road passes off road army barracks to the royal palace site, surrounded by an internal ring road in the centre.

Mahamuni Paya is in the southwest Mandalay, off the road towards Amarapura Mandalay road. Mahanumi paya one of Myanmar's most famous Buddhist sites in Myanmar. The gold and crimson site was originally built by Myanmar King Bodawpaya in 1784, when a brick road was constructed from his palace to the paya's eastern gate. You can still find traces of this Myanmar royal highway.

On the lip of a rivulet, this large and elegant wooden Myanmar monastery dates from 1895, when a pair of wealthy Chinese jade merchants commissioned it. Called simply the teak Myanmar monastery by many Myanmar local, the central building stands elevated on tall poles, and its balustrades and roof cornices are covered in detailed engravings. It's incredibly peaceful and seldom crowded at this Myanmar monastery in Mandalay Myanmar.

Amarapura biggest draw and easily one of Myanmar's most photographed sites is this remarkable 1.2 km long teak footbridge leading across the shallow Taungthaman Lake in Myanmar Mandalay division. Still strong after 200 years, the world's longest teak span sees a lot of life; Myanmar fishers casting aline into the water, locals walking their bicycles home to Taungthaman village across the lake and Myanmar monks in saffron robes carrying alms bowls between Myanmar monasteries on both sides.

The best times to visit the Bridge are just after sunrise or just before sunset, when hundreds of villagers commute back and forth across it. A popular sunset activity is hiring Myanmar boats to get close up looks of the 1060 post bridge from the water. In the dry season, however the lake dwindles greatly in size in Mandalay Myanmar.

Many visitors begin or end their journey in Myanmar Shan territory in this rail junction town about 65 km west of the Shan State border in the Myanmar Mandalay division. It's little more than a plce where people embark or disembark from the train when traveling to/from Bagan or Myanmar Inle Lake. On the other hand, it's easy to bypass Thazi altogether by traveling on express buses from Bagan to destinations in Shan State and Yangon or simply by flying to Heho from Yangon Myanmar.

Few places in Myanmar evoke the vibe of the British colonial era such as the hill town resort of Pyin U Lwin (Maymyo) near Mandalay. In the cool foothills here, 69 km east of Mandalay, stately colonial era buildings on the town's main street house Nepali tea houses or sweater shops, and Myanmar country cottages sit on grassy plots outside town. Some old home, like the famous Candacraig are now Myanmar government run hotels. Trotting through it all are pony led colorful miniature wagons. More importantly, it's about 6° C or 7° C cooler than in Mandalay Myanmar. Peak season in Pyin U Lwin coincides with the hottest months elsewhere except Pyin U Lwin.

If you look towards the range of hill that rises, shimmering in the heat, behind Bagan, you can often see a solitary peak standing apart from the range's west end. Rising to 737 m from the flat, surrounding Myingyan plain, and topped with a superb pagoda, Mt Popa Myanmar is said to be the core of an extinct volcano last active 250000 years ago. It's a popular and worthwhile half day trip from Bagan and visit Mt Popa resort in Myanmar.

Most independent travelers call Nyaung U home while in Bagan. The biggest town in the area and home to the key era, Myanmar train and bus links also has the most life after the sun has fallen. About 5 km northeast of Old Bagan, along the Myanmar Ayeyarwady River, Nyaung U has a hopping, relatively lively Myanmar restaurant row, a colourful Myanmar market, and the prototype of many regional stupas, Shwezigon Paya.

Despite its Ayeyarwady river location 88 km north of Nyaung U, Myingyan sort a rhymes with engine sees very few travelers, as major bus routes bypass the bumpier roads that come here. Some long distance Myanmar boats stop at the Ayeyarwady clocks, just west of town, but not the Mandalay Bagan express boats.

The main site in this area is the superb Shwezigon Paya. It is well known by both local tourist and Foreign visitors.

At the west end of Nyaung U, this beautiful zedi was started by Anawrahta but not completed until the reign of Kyanzittha. The latter is thought to have built his palace nearby. Supposedly, the Shwezigon was thought to have built his palace nearby. Supposedly, the Shwezigon was built to enshrine one of the four replicas of the Buddha tooth in Kandy, Sri Lanka, and to mark the northern edge of the city. The other three tooth replices went to Lawkananda, a smaller stupa to the south; to Tan Kyi, a stupa on the western bank of the Ayeyarwady; and to Tuyan Taung, a stupa on the summit of a hill 32km to the east.

The stupa's graceful bell shape became a prototype for virtually all later stupas over Myanmar. The gilded zedi lit up impressively at dusk sits on three rising terraces. Enamelled plaques in panels around the base of the zedi illustrate scenes from the Jataka. At the cardinal points, facing the terrace stairways, are four shrines, each of which houses a 4m-high bronze standing Buddha. Gupta-inspired and cast in 1102, these figures are Bagan's largest surviving bronze Buddhas. Their left hands exhibit the vitarka (expression) mudra while the right hands are held palms out wards. Fingers straight up, portraying the gesture of abhaya (no fear).

A 10cm circular indentation in a stone slab, before the eastern steps up, was filled with water to allow former Burmese monarchs to look at the reflection of the hti without tipping their heads backwards (which might have caused them to lose their crowns). For a few kyat visitors can view the bejeweled hti through a telescope reserved for that purpose. Surrounding the zedi are clusters of zayat (rest houses) and shrines, some of them old, others more modern, though none of them is original.

In addition to ranking as one of the oldest stupas in Bagan, Shwezigon is known as the site where the 37 per Buddhist nat were first officially endorsed by the Bamar monarchy. To the southeast of the platform, a nat. Ask around if the compound is locked. At one end stands an original stone figure of Thagyamin, king of the nat and a direct appropriation of the Hindu god Indra. This is the oldest known freestanding Thagyamin figure in Myanmar.

From the Nyaung U Jetty, you can negotiate a fun boat trip to see three temples just off the Ayeyarwady riverbank. A kilometre north, you can find the 13th century Thetkyamuni, with a few murals inside (hard to make out) and tight, dark steps leading up to a small terrace up top. On the hill nearby is the same-era Kondawgyi Patho, with better preserved murals and views from the surrounding platform.

Another kilometre or so north is the 11th and 12th century Kyauk Gu Ohnmin cave temple, built in the side of a ravine. The inside tunnels lead about 50m to blocked-off rubble; some locals say the tunnel was intended to go 18km. You can climb on top of the temple from the new steps to the right.

These sights are accessible, with more difficulty, by road. A boat trip takes about two or three hours, and your driver will show you the temples. It costs about k 3000 or k 4000 for three or four people.

Housed in an absurd, out of place, 19th century style temple, the museum was built in 1996 by the same people who redid the Mandalay Myanmar palace. It features many fine pieces from Bagan (reclining Buddhas, original images, inscripted stones and mural recreations) and an unexpected room of modern art renderings of the Myanmar temples. Not many visitors go, but the collection is often good.

Officially known as the Bagan Myanmar archaeological Zone this 42 sq km area, 190 km south of Mandalay and 690 km north of the Yangon, includes the principal areas Nyaung U, Old Bagan and New Bagan.

In 1990, Myanmar government relocated Myanmar (Burma) locals form old Bagan here, and give them credit Myanmar locals have done their best in making the most of their new home. Located 3 km south of bold Bagan, New Bagan has a number of new, more midrange Myanmar guesthouses and hotels and some nice river spot Myanmar restaurants.

About 3.5km east of the New Bagan crossroads, and standing north of the main road, this pentagonal zedi is similar to the Shwezigon (opposite) but with a more unusual design. Set in the south-central end of Bagan Myanmar, it also has lovely views from its highest terrace.

Now set among lush garden grounds with a gilded bell, the Dhammayazika dates from 1196. Apparently the stupa is haunted by the general who started its construction (before being finished by Narapatisithu); it's said the general has appeared in many photos taken at the site, including one of recent Myanmar government officials!

An outer wall has five gateways. Up top, five small Myanmar temples, each containing a Buddha image, encircle the terraces; some of them bear interior murals added during the Myanmar konbaung era.

It opposible, with perseverance, to cycle the thrilling dirt road here from Dhammayangyi Pahto, 2km north.

Built in 1222, this east-facing, whitewashed temple near Myanmar Minnanthu village (about 3km east of Dhammayazika on the north side of the road) stands on a raised platform and has interior walls decorated with well preserved frescoes. It is topped by a gilded Indian-style spire like that on Ananda. The jars like structures out front were pillars of a building toppled by the 1975 earthquake.

A couple of hundred meters north of leimyethna by dirt road, this spired Myanmar temple gets attention for the view from its upper reaches.

Across the main road from Tayok, this complex of three interconnected shrines (thename means Three Stupas) is a highlight for visitors who want to see 13th century murals close up. It was abandoned shortly before its construction was complete possibly due to the invasion of Kublai Khan. Dating to the late 13th century, each square cubicle is topped by a fat sikhara; a similar structure appears only at Salay. The design is remarkably similar to Khmer Buddhist ruins in Thailand.

You enter the middle shrine. To the right (south) are whitewashed walls, but some Pali writing is still visible. The other two shrines (particularly the northernmost one) are home to lovely, vaguely Chinese or Tibet-looking, mural paintings that contain Bodhisattva figures. Weather these indicate possible Mahayana or Tantric influence is a hotly debated issue among art historians.

The three-shrine design hints at links with the Hindu Trimurti (triad) of Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma, a triumbirate also associated with Tantric Buddhism. One might just as easily say it represents the Triple Gems of Buddhism (Buddha, dhamma and sangha), except that such a design is uncommon in Asian Buddhist archaeology, although it does appear in the Hindu shrines of India and Nepal. During peak season the doors will be unlocked.

This square temple, just north of Payathonzu, is decorated with faded Jataka frescoes and was built in 1255 by Thambula, the wife of King Uzana. Its doors were kept locked at research time, but you can see a boat race along the eastern wall if looking in from the southern entrance.

Dating from the mid-13th century, this small, single-chambered temple has very fine frescoes and a ruined, seated Buddha image. It's about 200m north of Thambula; a sign leads down a short dirt road.

Nandamannya earns its reputation by its mural of the "Temptation of Mara", in which nubile young females (vainly) attempt to distract the Buddha from the meditation session that led to his enlightenment. The undressed nature of the depicted females shocked French epigraphist Charles Duroiselle, who wrote in 1916 that they were "so vulgarly erotic and revolting that they can neither be reproduced or described". Times change: the topless ladies can be seen, particularly on the back left wall.

The murals' similarity with those at Payathonzu has led some art historians to suggest they were painted by the same hand.

Just behind the temple is the Kyat Kan Kyaung, a working underground monastery dating from the 11th century. Mats on the tunnel floors are used for meditation. Apparently a monk died during meditation in recent years and was left for days-everyone thought he was still meditating.

Although officially credited to Kyanzittha, this cave temple may actually date back to Anawrahta. Built into a cliff face 250m southwest of Shwezigon, the long, dimly lit corridors are decorated with frescoes, some of which are though to have been painted by Bagan's Tartar invaders during the period of the Mongol occupation after 1287. An attendant usually will greet you with a torch to borrow and keys to unlock the doors. It's very quiet in there, and you can actually see the 800 year old brush strokes.

If you see only a temple or two and darn you for limiting yourself make it to Ananda, one of the finest, largest, best-preserved and most revered of all Bagan temples in Myanmar. The terraced temple, with a corncob golden hti towering 52m high, features four more gilded spires at the ends of a raised square platform. You'll see it shimmering from all over the plain.

It's roughly 450m east of Thatbyinyu, 500m north of Shwesandaw and 1km northwest of Dhamayangyi Pahto. Most visitors access it often through the sea of vendors from the northern side.

Thought to have been built between 1090 and 1105 by king Kyanzittha, this perfectly proportioned temple heralds the stylistic and of the Early Bagan period and the beginning of the Middle period. In 1990, on its 900th anniversary, the temple spires were gilded. The remainder of the temple exterior is whitewashed from time to time.

The central square measures 53m along each side. Upper floors are closed to visitors. The entranceways make the structure a perfect Greek cross, each entrance is crowned with a stupa finial. The base and the terraces are decorated with 554 glazed tiles showing Jataka scenes, thought to be derived from Mon texts. Huge carved teak doors separate interior halls from cross passages on all four sides.

Facing outward from the centre of the cube are four 9.5m standing Buddha statues. Only the Bagan-style images facing north and south are original; both display the dhammachakka mudra (a hand position symbolizing the Buddha teaching his first sermon). The other two images are replacements for figures destroyed by fire in the 1600s. All four have bodies of solid teak, though guides may claim the southern image is made of a bronze alloy. Guides like to point out that if you stand by the donation box in front of the original southern Buddha, his face looks sad, while from a distance he tends to look mirthful.

The western and eastern standing Buddha images are done in the later Konbaung or Mandalay, style. If looked at from the right angle, the two lions at the eastern side resemble an ogre. A small, nutlike sphere held between the thumb and middle finger of the east-facing image is said to resemble pill, and may represent the Buddha offering dhamma(Buddhist teachings) as a cure for suffering. Both arms hang at the image's sides with hand outstretched, a mudra (hand position) unknown to traditional Budhist sculpture outside this temple.

The west facing Buddha feactures the abhaya mudra (the hands outstretched, in the gesture of no fear). At its feet sit two life-sized lacquer statues, said to represent King Kyanzittha and Shin Arahan, The Mon monk who initiated the king into Theravada Buddhism. Inside the westetn portico are two Buddha footprint symbols on pedestals.

The British built a brick museum nearby in 1904, now used as a storage facility. Around it stand a few ordination markers, inscribed stellae and Buddha images.

Just west of Ananda's northern entry, this small vihara (sanctuary of chapel) features some detailed 18th-century murals brusting with bright red and green, showing details of everyday life from the Bagan period. In the southeast corner, you can see Portuguese traders engaged in trade. Built in 1137, the temple's name means "Anada brick Monastery" usually the door is unlocked; ask at Ananda Pahto for the "Keymaster" if not.

Just north of the Bagan-Nyaung U Rd, almost midway to Nyaung U, this mid-13th century ordination hall, houses some brightly painted frescoes depicting big scenes on the walls and ceilings from the late 17th or early 18th century. Sadly many pieces crumbled in the 1975 earthquake. The building, named for a well-known monk from the 13th century, is often locked to protect the art. The roof battlements imitate Burmese wooden architecture, and a small centre spire rises from the rooftop.

Across the road from Upali Thien, this 46m high temple was built by King Nantagmya in 1218. Nantaungmya erected the temple on this spot because it was here that he was chosen (by a leaning umbrella), from among five brothers. To be the crown prince.

It's probably most impressive from outside. It's terraced design, similar to Sulamani Pahto and is based on a 42m square base. Have a walk around to take in the fragments of the original fine plaster carvings, glazed sandstone decoration and nicely carved relief on the doorways. Inside are four Buddhas on the lower and upper floors, though the stairways are closed. Traces of old murals are also still visible. There is plenty of vendor everyday at htilominlo Pahto.

Free from tourists and postcard vendors not long ago, this temple with steep stairs leading to a narrow terrace around the stupa has become something of an alternative sunset spot. It's about 600m south of the Htilomino, across Anawrahta Rd. It's also known as "Temple 394" Bagan Myanmar.

Off Anawrahta Rd, about 1.5km east of Htilomino Pahto, this Early Bagan period temple has some excellent stucco carvings on the outside walls (particularly on the north side) and some original paintings visible inside.

Just west of Nyaung U, and about 100m or so east of Gubyauknge, this off the main circuit, detailed 13th century temple has an Indian-style spire, like the Mahabodhi Paya in Old Bagan. It is interesting for the fine frescoes of scenes from the Jataka, but unfortunately, in 1899 a German collector came by and surreptitiously removed many of the panels on which the frescoes were painted. Those that remain in the entry are in great shape. Steps inside lead to four Buddha images and you can see Hindu figures engraved on the spire.

In the vast plain (roughly south of Anawrahta Rd between New Bagan and Nyaung U), it's possible to stumble into village life and goat herds just 2km from the Pyay roads. Some corners, unsurprisingly, are well away from the normal package-tour stops, while a few are must-sees for all. Some temples are locked, but a "keymaster" should be in the area; ask around. This list features a handful of well-worthily sites running west to east (towards the clearly visible Bagan Tower construction site, near Nyaung U).

Shwesandaw Paya is Myanmar Bagan's most famous "sunset pagoda" the Shwesandaw is the graceful white pyramid-style pagoda with steps leading past five terraces to the circular stupa top; it's located roughly midway between Thatbyinnyu and Dhammayangyi. Its roomy top terrace teems with camera-toting travelers before sunset and offers a desvering full 360 degree look of Bagan. If you go during the day, you're likely to be alone.

Following his conquest of Thaton in 1057, King Anawrahta built this at the centre of his newly empowered kingdom. The terraces once bore and of other sculptures, were covered by rather heavy-handed renovations. The now gilded zedi bell rises from two octagonal bases, which top the five square terraces. This was the first monument at Bagan to feature stairways leading from the square-bottom terraces to the round base of the stupa itself. This stupa supposedly enshrines a Buddha hair relic, brought back from Thatton. Only the south entrance doesn't have handrails leading up the steep steps.

The hti, which was toppled by the earthquake, can still be seen lying on the south side of the paya compound. A new one was fitted soon after the quake.

About 150m north stands Lawkahteikpan Pahto a small but interesting Middle period containing excellent frescoes and inscriptions in both Burmese and Mon. it's usually locked ask at Shwesandaw for the keymaster.

Visible from all parts of Bagan, this massive walled 12th century temple (about 500m southeast of Shwesandaw) has a similar plan to Ananda; with projecting porticoes and receding terraces, though its sikhara is with reduced to a stub nowadays. It is generally thought that it was commissioned by Narathu (who was assassinated in 1170), though some have attributed the building to the earlier reign of Alaungsithu.

Like Ananda, there are two encircling ambulatories, but the inner one is closed off, intentionally filled by brick rubble centuries ago. No one is sure why, but many believe it was "payback" to the ruthless king who mandated the mortarless brickwork fit together so tighly that even a pin couldn't pass between any two bricks. Walking around the outer ambulatory, under ceilings so high up you can only hear the squeaks of bats circling in the dark, you can see some intact stucco relief and paintings, suggesting the work had been completed. The mystery goes on.

Three out of the four Buddha sanctums were also filled with bricks. The remaining western shrine features two original side-by-side images of Gautama and Maitreya, the historical and future Buddhas (it's the only Bagan site with two side by side Buddhas). Perhaps someday, when Myanmar's archaeological department, or Unesco or some other party, clears out all the brick rubble, one of the great architectural mysteries of Bagan will be solved.

The top terraces are closed to visitors, though there are some nooks that some vendors lead visitors to (slightly illegally).

About 1km east of Dhammayangyi, this broad two storey temple is one of Bagan's most attractive, with lush grounds (and a fair share of vendors) behind the surrounding walls. It's a prime example of later, more sophisticated temple styles, with better internal lighting. This temple, known as the Crowning Jewel, was constructed around 1181 by Narapatisithu. Combining the horizontal planes of the Early period with the vertical lines of the Middle, the receding terraces create a pyramid effect. The brickwork throughout is considered some of the best in Bagan. The gilded sikhara is a reconstruction; the original was destroyed in the 1975 earthquake stupas stand at the corners of each terrace, and a high wall, fitted with elavorate gateways at each cardinal point, encloses the entire complex. The interior face of the wall was once lined with 100monastic cells, a feature unique among Bagan's ancient monasteries.

Carved stucco on mouldings, pediments and pilasters represents some of Bagan's finest ornamental work and is in fairly good condition. Glazed plaques around the base and terraces are also still visible.

Buddha images face the four directions from the ground floor; the image at the main eastern entrance sits in a recess built into the wall. The interior passage around the base is painted with quite big frescoes from the Konbaung period, and there are traces of earlier frescoes. The stairways to the top are closed.

A walled enclosure in the north of the compound contains the remains of Sulamani Kyaung. A water tank in the compound is thought to be the only original Bagan reservoir still in use by local residents.

Facing Sulamani from 150m east, this sikhara-topped temple looks like a smaller version of Sulamani, but is (for the time being) blissfully free of visitors or vendors. Much of its interiors were damaged by the 1975 earthquake, but there are multiple stairways up to a wrap-around meditation chamber with little light (and a few bats). There are two outside terraces, reached by narrow stairs, with superb views.

About 750m southeast of Sulamani, reached by dirt roads that sometimes get obscured in goat fields, this impressive pagoda is a superb sunset viewing spot, with a giant open terrace-Bagan' largest atop the steps, and another small deck up. Many days, visitors have it to themselves; on others a lone group may be here.

The sites north and south of Myinkaba village are all just off the main road and easy to access. These are listed in order from north to south.

Close to the riverbank, towards Myinkaba from the Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel, Mingalazedi Paya (Blessing Stupa; aka "Sunrise Pagoda") is a hot spot forsunrise (and sunset too): it faces the full Bagan plain to the east. It's enormous bell-like dome, reached by steep stairs up three receding terraces, and for the beautiful glazed Jataka tiles around each terrace. Although many Jataka have been damaged or stolen, there are still 561 of the 1061 orignials left. The smaller square building in the zedi grounds is one of the few Tripitaka libraries made of brick.

The Mingalazedi is the very last of the large Late-period monuments. It was built from 1268 to 1274 by Narathihapati, who tempted fate (the story goes) by overlooking a prophecy that Bagan would fall if the pagoda was ever finished. Ten years after it was,. Mongols invaded and Bagan's prominence fell.

Situated just to the left of the road as you enter Myinkaba, Gubyaukgyi (Great Painted Cave Temple) sees a lot of visitors (and vendors) during peak season for it's well-preserved, richly coloured paintings inside. These are though to date from the temple's original construction in 1113, when Kyanzittha's son Rajakumar built it following his father's death. In Indian style, the monument consists of a large vestibule attached to a smaller antechamber. The fine stuccowork on its exterior walls is in particularly good condition.

Perforated, Pyu-style windows means you'll need a powerful torch to see the ceiling paintings clearly. If it's locked off-season, ask in the village for the keymaster.

Next to the monument stands the gilded Myaezedi (Emerald Stupa). A four sided pillar in a cage between the two monuments bears an inscription consecrating Gubyaukgyi and written in four languages Pyu, Mon, Old Burmese and Pali, Its linguistic and historical signigicance is great, since it establishes the Pyu as an important cultural influence in early Bagan and relates the chronology of the Bagan kings.

In Myinkaba village, about 500m south of Gubyaukgyi, stands this active (and rather modern-looking) pagoda, named after the Mon king from Thaton, who was held captive here by King Anawrahta.

In the front of the building are three seated Buddhas; in the black is a huge reclining Buddha. All seem too large for their enclosures supposedly representing the stress and discomfort the king had to endure. However, these features are not unique in Bagan. It should be pointed out that conquerors of the 11th century weren't lin the habit of sparing the lives of leaders even for a captive life . Aung San Suu Kyi, in fact, described the sympathetic account of Manuha as one of the most admirable parts of Burmese history unstinting respect for a noble enemy.

Just south of the Manuha Paya by dirt road, this shrine is said to have been used as Manuha's prison, although there is little evidence supporting the legend. In this story the shrine was originally Hindu and captor's thouth using it as a prison would be easier than converting it to a Buddhist temple. It's worth visiting for its interior masonary work sandstone block facing over a brick core, certainly some of Bagan's finest detailed sculpture. Perforated stone windows are typical of earlier Bagan architecture in fact it was probably bagan's first gu style shrine.

In the central cancturaly the four stone pillars have finely carved sandstone bas relief figures of three faced Brahma. The crator deity is holding lotus flowers, thought to be offering to a freestanding Buddha image once situated in the shrine's centre, a theory that dispels the idea that this was ever a Hindu shrine. The side of the pillars feature ogrelike kalaate heads with open mouths streaming with flowers. Legend goes that Shiva employed such creatures to protect temples. But they proved too ferocious; so Shiva tricked them into eating their bodies. Then fed them flowers to keep their mind off snacking on worshippers. In the centre of the four pillars is an altar, on which once stood a standing Buddha or some locals believe a Hindu God.

About 400m south of the Manuha, this 111th century temple with a Sinhalese style stupa was supposedly built by Kyanzittha's Bengali wife Abeyadana, who waited for him here as he hid for his life from his predecessor King Sawlu. It's famed for its original frescoes, which were cleaned in recent years by Unesco Staff. With a torch, you can make out many figures that Abeyadana, believed to be a Mahayanist, would likely have asked for Bodhisattvas such as Avalokitesvara, and Hindu deities (Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva and Indra). The inner shrine contains a large, brick, seated Buddha (partly restored); surrounding walls are lined with niches, most now empty. Inside the front wall are many jataka scenes.

Slightly south of Abeyadana and across the road, this elegant and well preserved temple was built by kyanzittha. The main Buddha image is twice life size and shelters under the hood of a huge naga (dragon serpant). This reflects the legend that Kyanzittha built the temple on the spot where he was sheltered while fleeing from his angry brother and predecessor Sawlu an activity he had to indulge in on more than one occasion. The outer, dark corridor has many niches with images of the earlier Buddhas. Paintings also decorate the corridor walls. The central shrine has two smaller standing Buddhas as well as the large one. Unfortunately the ewalls have been whitewashed, obscuring any traces of possible murals.

Named after the lady who supposedly sponsored it's construction, this typical late bagan brick monastery (about 200m south of Nagayon) is thought to have been built in 1204. A zedi to the north and gu to the south are also ascribed to Somingyi. Many brick monasteries in Bagan were single-block structures; Somingyi is unique in that it has monastic cells clustered around a courtyard.

This stupa and shrine stand side by side (about 250m north of New Bagan) and are traditionally assigned to Queen Seinnyet in the 11th century, although the architecture clearly points to a period two centuries later. The zedi rests on three terraces and is topped by a beautiful stylized umbrella.

At the height of Bagan's power, boats from the Mon region, Rakhaing (Arakan) and even Sri Lanka would anchor by this riverside pagoda (about 250m southeast of the New Bagan crossroads a sign in Burmese points the way) with its distinctive enlongated cylindrical dome. It was built in 1059 by Anawrahta. It is still used as an everyday place of worship and is thought to house an important Buddha tooth replica. There are lots of benches for wide-open views of the Ayeyarwaddy, but it's sometimes hard to enjoy hassle-free.

Just inland to the northeast from Lawkananda Kyaung are excavated remains of these twin 11th century paya. Found in 1905, the lower parts of the pagodas are ho-hum from the outside but feature hundreds of terracotta Jataka lining the vaulted corridors (particularly impressive in Anauk Petleik Paya). A keymaster usually appears to unlock the door and turn on the fluorescent lights.

About 1km further south, this large, 13th century bell-shaped stupa is New Bagan's most impressive structure. Built by Htilominlo, it's set on four square terraces, each fronted by a standing Buddha image in brick and stucco. A rather rickety stairway leads up the stupa's southern side, where you can circle the structure on the terraces. At the southwestern corner is a chamber; you can climb up the wall and then down into the interior, but have a torch handy. Usually somebody is around to show you the spot.

Although old Bagan is no longer inhabited, it represents the core of the Bagan Myanmar Archaeological Zone and contains several of the main Myanmar temple sites, city walls and a museum. It's right on the bank of the Ayeyarwady River trade.

This roughly counterclockwise circuit takes in temples within the old city walls. From the Archaeological Museum (p273) or some Old Bagan hotels, you could loop through these sites on foot, if desired, in a 2km loop.

This village near Old Bagan, about 1 km south and 2 km south old Bagan and 2 km north of New Bagan, is famed for its family run lacquer ware shops and some choice early Bagan period Myanmar Pahto(temples ) and stupas.

Just north of the Archaeological Museum, on the road between Nyaung U and New Bagan, Gawdawpalin is one of the largest and most imposing Bagan temples at 60m, you can't miss it. Built during the reign of Narapatisithu and finished under Nantaungmya's, it's considered the crowing achievement of the late period. Its name means "Platform to which Homage is paid". The most recent homage was its heavy-duty reconstruction following terrific damage sustained in the 1975 earthquake (it stands near that quake's epicenter).

Inside, past a fair share of vendors, is a quite modern, active altar (tile floors, donation boxes); along the four walls are 10 Buddha images and some barely visible murals. Stairs ascending through the walls to the top terrace are closed to visitors.

A nice set of chinthe (half lion/half dragon mythical beats) guards the stairway leading up this small, square monastery platform, constructed in 1174 by Narapatisithu. It's about 200m south of Gawdawpalin, on the other side of the road. In front of the monastery is a brick and stucco Tripitaka library next to a large acacia tree. Atop the steps, a tiered roof (with a newer gold-capped hti, an umbrellalike decorated pinnacle) contains a large sitting Buddha. Archaeologists discovered an intricately carved 6cm votive tablet here that contained 78 sculpted figures.

On the dirt road 150m east towards the dominating Thatbyinnyu, the Pahtothamya (or Thamya Pahto) was probably built during the regin of Kyanzittha around the turn of the 12th century, although it is popularly held to be one of five temples built by the little known king Taunghthugyi (aka Sawrahan; 931-64). The interior of this single-story building is dimly lit, typical of the early type of Pyu-influenced temples, with their small, perforated stone windows. In its prominent vertical superstructure and reconstructed lotus-bud sikhara (corncoblike temple finial), however, the monument is clearly beginning to move forward from the Early period.

Often kids with a torch will point out the super painting remnants along the interior passages, perhaps the earliest surviving murals in Bagan. Steps lead up to a roomy viewing platform.

Between Pahtothamya and Thatbyinnyu, this is the only Hindu temple remaining in Bagan. The exterior of the stubby temple remains much damaged from the 1975 earthquake. Only the main hall and superstructure stand.

A sign dates it to the early 11th century. It's also said to have been built in 931 by Taunghtaugyi: If true, this was about a century before the southern school of Buddhism came to Bagan, following the conquest of Thaton.

The temple is dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. Gupta-style reliefs of the 10 Avatars were placed around the outside wall; seven of these survive.

The central square of brick supports the dome and crumbled sikhara, and once contained freestanding figures of Vishnu, as well as Vishnu relief on each of the four sides. The statues were stolen by a German oil engineer in the 1890s, but the badly damaged brick and stuco reliefs can still be seen.

The temple's name means "Shrine Confining Nat", a reference to a purported time when King Anawrahta is said to have confiscated all non-Buddhist religious images both indigenous Burmese nat and Hindu devas (celestial beings) and placed them in this shrine as part of an effort to establish "pure" Theravada Buddhism .The king eventually give in to the cult and standardized the current roster of principal Burmese nat by placing 37 chosen images at Shwezigon Paya. The veracity of this account has never been confirmed, but most Bagan residents in fact virtually all Burmese accept it as fact.

Named for "omniscience", Bagan's highest temple (about 150m east of Nathlaungn and 200m south of Shwegugyi) is built of two white-coloured boxy storeys, each with three diminishing terraces rimmed with spires and leading up a gold-tipped sikhara, 63m up. Its monumental size and vertically make it a classic example of Bagan's middle period and neatly provide a chronological link between two nearby big cats, the Early-period Ananda and Late-period Gawdawpalin. Built in 1144 by Alaungsithu, its terraces are encircled by indetations for 539 Jataka. Plaques were never added, leading some scholars to surmise that the monument was never consecrated.

Visitors are barred from climbing Thatbyinnyu's inner passages to the top terrace, which is supposedly an amazing network of passageways. Most of the temples inside walls are whitewashed, but there are some original murals near the west entrance.

The temple is located near the southeastern corner of the old city wall. A couple of hundred metres south, you can climb up on the brick for a view.

Built by Alaungsithu in 1131, this smaller but elegant pahto (temple or shrine), 200m north of Thatbyinnyu, is an example of the Middle period, a transition in architectural style from the dark and cloistered to the airy and light, its name means "Great Golden Cave", and its corncob sikhara is a scaled down version of the one at Ananda (p300), while its reach marks a move towards verticality.

Inside you'll find stucco carving, a teak Buddha and stone slabs (in Pali) that retell its history, including that it took just seven months to build. Missing from the scripts are details of its builder's demise Alaungsithu's son brought his sick father here in 1163 to smother him to death.

Fowllowing the sacking of Thaton, king Anawrahta carted off some 30 elephant-loads of Buddhist scriptures and built this library (just north-east of Shwegugyi) to house them in 1058. The square design follows the basic Early Bagan gu (cave temple) plan, perfect for the preservation of light-sensitive plam-leaf scriptures. The old library is notable for the perforated stone windows, each carved from single stone slabs, and the plaster carvings on the roof, which are in imitation of Burmese woodcarvings.

At research time, construction of Anawrahta's palace replica was underway on the north side of the road to Nyaung U, a couple of hundred metres northeast of Shwegugyi. It's likely to be open during your visit (possibly for an extra fee, as a Yangon entereneur is footing the bill). Just east, on the other side of the road, is the original site of Anawrahta's palace, currently closed off by barbed wire and under excavation by the Department of Archaeology.

The former eastern entrance to the walled city is 100m east of the original palace site. The still-impressive Tharaba Gate (aka Sarabha Gate) squeezes the road to Nyaung U. The ruins are the best preserved remains of the 9th century wall, and the only gate still standing. Traces of old stucco can still be seen on the gateway.

The gate is guarded by highly revered brother and sister nat, the male (Lord Handsome) on the right, the female (Lady Golden face) on the left. In their human histories, the siblings died in a fire, so worshippers offer the images flowers and water, rather than candles or incense.

Just east, the road passes over the one time wall-surrounding moat. (there are several restaurants 200m east.)

Unlike any other Bagan temple, this monument, located on the north side of the main road 350m west of the gate, is modeled after the famous Mahabodhi temple in Bodhgaya, Inda, which commemorates the spot where the Buddha attained enlightment. Built during the reign of Nantaungmya in 1215, the spire is richly coasted in niches enclosing seated Buddha figures, rising from a square block. The stairway to the top is closed to visitors.

Inside is a modern makeover with tile floor and carpet. The ruined buildings just north feature some original glazed painting fragments.

Right on the bank of the Ayeyarwaddy (reached from the Nyaung U road, about 200m east of the Mahabodhi Paya), this cylindrical Pyu-style stupa is said to date further back than any Bagan temple. Locals claim it dates to the 3rd century; most likely it was erected around the same time as the city walls (around 850). It's named for bu (gourd). What's seen now a gold stupa above a row of crenulated terraces leading down to the water is a complete reconstruction, however; the 1975 earhquake demolished the original. If you want to sit on the benches facing the water, please don't prop up your feet on the wall as some travelers do.

Off the road to the southeast is the Pebinkyaung Paya, a 12th century pagoda built in a unique Sinhalese style.

For many travelers with noses pressed against bus-window glass, Meiktila is a cross roads between Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan and Inle Lake first, and a town second. It's also an important and prosperous trade centre that sees a lot of locals in uniform, as several air-force bases are located north and south of town.

Legend goes that king Anwrahta, founder of Bagan, had a pond here broadened to the current lake that looms west of town; when Popa, the report cameback, "Lord, it doesn't go that far" (Meiktila' is an abbreviation of the wordy bad-news report).

In March 1945, the British surprised the Japanese based here and killed 20,000 Japanese soilders over the next few months in an important WWII loss for the Japanese. Much of the city was flattened. The trend has continued, sadly, with fires. Town-engulfing fires devastated the city in 1974 and 1991. In 2003 some of the centre was destroyed (evidenced by burned-out buildings facing the Grand Cinema). One local warned, "We have a fire every year. Better get fire insurance if you're planning to stay".

A small island/pagoda reached by a wooden pier in the lake and lit up at night.

Coming from Yangon, Pyinmana is the first major town in Mandalay Division. It is a leafy, almost tropical place with a street spilling market in the walkable centre spiced with mosques, pagodas and the small Shan Lake a welcome change if you're arriving from the dustry "dry zone" to the north. There's little of historic interest, and not much to do, but it's another great candidate for a "real town" to explore around. Coconut plams are planted along the Ngalaik River, passing through the town's north side. You can see the Shan Yoma and Aleh Yoma (Shan and Aleh mountain ranges) to the east and west.

Traditionally there have been more propaganda signs here,l erected to scare off visiting undercover rebels. Insurgent territory, technically, begins just 30km east.